Let’s face it, we all love pockets! And I think that long cardigans are especially well-suited to having them, so I decided that my Beachrock definitely wanted pockets.
It’s relatively easy to insert a pocket into a cardigan like this one that uses a simple stitch pattern.
Step one: Make your pocket inserts
For the purposes of this cardigan, let’s make our pockets 4″ square, or 21 sts wide by 31 rows tall. I would suggest making them in the pattern stitch, but you could make them in stockinette stitch if you prefer. When you have worked for 4″ (31 rows), leave the stitches on a spare needle (perhaps one of your DPNs that is waiting patiently for you to make sleeves). Make two pockets, assuming you want them on both fronts.
Step two: Insert your pockets
When you have reached a body length about 1″ (or more) longer than your pocket inserts, it’s time to insert the pockets. Note about calculating where to put them in: I like to put them approximately in the middle of the fronts.
Pocket insertion row (RS): Work 14 (16, 18, 21, 23, 25, 29) sts, place the next 21 sts on hold for the pocket top, work across the 21 sts from one pocket lining, work 119 (135, 151, 165, 181, 197, 209) body stitches, place the next 21 body sts on hold, work across 21 sts from the other pocket lining, work the last 14 (16, 18, 21, 23, 25, 29) sts.
Continue with the rest of the body as normal.
Step three: Finishing your pockets and pocket tops
Place the held stitches from one side onto a needle (DPNs work fine for this part as well). With the RS facing, work across these sts, and work in pattern for a few rows (I’d say 3-5 rows will look nice.) Bind off.
Use the tails to sew the sides of the pocket edges down on the fronts.
On the inside of the sweater, sew the 3 sides of the pocket. I usually just use a simple whip stitch for this part.
Here are a few photos of the finished pocket from the outside and the inside of the sweater:
Instead of leaving the stitches on hold for the pocket tops, you could bind off the 21 sts that you will replace with the pocket stitches. Note that if you go this route, you will need to break your yarn after binding off, and then rejoin the yarn when you work across the pocket lining stitches. Using this method is a good option if you don’t want to make a pocket top edge afterwards. In hindsight, think that might look neater for Beachrock.